Grandpa's own route
Grandpa's Graca Saturday: tiles, a long lunch, a ginja and fado
About 7 hours, on foot with one short tram or walk back uphill. Best on a Saturday or Sunday so the fado is on.
- 10:30
Hand-painted azulejo workshop, Graca
Start by making something with your hands. Paint one tile with a patient local artist (book the 10:30 slot) and leave it to be fired for tomorrow.
Then: 5 minutes on foot downhill to Rua do Sol a Graca.
- 12:15
Vila Berta
A quiet 20-minute stroll through a tiny 1900s workers' lane of tiled walls and iron balconies. Keep your voice low, people live here, and do not photograph into windows.
Then: 15 minutes on foot downhill into Mouraria (or bus 734 from Graca).
- 12:45
Ze da Mouraria
Lunch where the queue forms at the door and the menu is in Portuguese. Share one giant plate (bifinhos ao alhinho, garlic steak, or the bacalhau) between two. Cash only, lunch only, queue from about 12:45.
Then: 15 minutes on foot via Martim Moniz and Rossio to Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, or metro Martim Moniz to Rossio, 3 minutes.
- 14:30
Ginjinha Sem Rival and the Casa do Alentejo courtyard
Drink a standing shot of ginja (sour cherry liqueur, about EUR 2) at Ginjinha Sem Rival, number 7 on the same street, with the cherry. Then climb the plain door at number 58 and look down on the Moorish courtyard for 20 minutes. It is free.
Then: Walk 10 minutes to Martim Moniz, then tram 28 about 12 minutes up to Graca (queues are long, or walk 25 minutes uphill through Mouraria).
- 16:30
Tasca do Jaime
Order an imperial (small draught beer), the cod fritters with tomato rice (about EUR 10) and stand or sit wherever there is room. The singing starts at 16:00 but gets warm from 17:30. Stay until the sun goes, and be silent while anyone sings.
Then: Finish. The Graca viewpoint is 5 minutes on foot if you want a last look at the river; tram 28 or bus back down to the city.














































